England's second oldest Cathedral, in its smallest diocese, this intimate church in central Rochester has over 1400 years of history and was cheated out of one of England's greatest dead people.
King Ethelbert of Kent gave the go-ahead for construction in 604 and a choir school from that day still sings. But the only physical evidence of the Saxon church are the foundation stones; today's church mostly shows what happened when the Normans pitched-up and Bishop Gundulf got building; he created what is commonly cited as England's finest Norman church.
Architectural Features
Romanesque architecture
It is said the towns of East Kent held out against William the Conqueror longer than their neighbours; once there, however, the Normans left quite a mark, constructing the new cathedral to modish Continental designs that would have appeared outlandish to
It remains one of the best English examples of a style dubbed “romanesque” by more-recent historians struggling to categorise pre-Gothic European architecture. Rochester’s West Front, with its characteristic round arches, dates from the decades after the invasion, and is largely original, bar some fifteenth century windows; the scene is completed by the handsome castle that sits opposite. The cathedral’s nave and crypt also date from this period. French monk and architect Gundulf, the builder of much of the Tower of London, was in charge of the whole project; he was also the first Bishop of Rochester.
The Green Men
These colourful carvings, dating from the 1840s, will watch down from the ceiling throughout your visit
Scholars argue about the origins of the green man motif, found in many medieval churches, as well as on pub signs and the tattered sleeves of seventies folk albums. Some believe it is a pagan fertility symbol adopted by the early-Christian church keen to appeal to wayward Celtic barbarians. Others think this notion is romantic cobblers, dreamt up during the industrial revolution by those yearning for a lost English arcadia. Either way, Rochester's green men, their gaping gobs sprouting thick vines, are a lot of fun.
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Stories & Trivia
Looting and fires
In 1130 a fire destroyed Rochester pretty much entirely. What was salvaged was probably lost in subsequent blazes in 1137 and 1179.
Troubles did not end there: King John looted the city in 1215, while, fifty years later, the charismatic Earl Simon de Montford did likewise as he fought against the over-mighty Henry III. Rochester is now far safer place, although some of the drinkers looked like things could get hairy on a Friday night.
Unruly Monks
Rochester's monks bickered with bishops, feuded with the Canterbury monks, warred against the locals of Rochester, and fought for every pig and goose in the annual xenium feast.
Second oldest foundations
Rochester's foundations are the second oldest in the country, after those of Canterbury Cathedral, its snootier bigger brother. The Saxons built here first and that was a long time ago.
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Cafe
The Cathedral Tea Rooms
The cafe is a busy affair with English gardens and a traditional feel. It has a lived-in and well-used character; no franchising here.
There are home-made cakes on the counter, a simple menu and a queue holding as many locals as tourists. If you visit in the summer, the garden will almost certainly be where you will rest your tray. Even if it is too chilly, go and take a peek.
We visited on a very busy day (it being the December Dickensian Festival) and so our experience of the main café may not be typical: we were served tea in cardboard and, while we accept some people like milky tea, it was weak. This has affected our scoring, perhaps unfairly. Luckily, a pop-up cafe appeared in the Crypt for festival day where the tea was in cups and was as strong as you liked!- top
Treasures
Wheel of Fortune
A real treasure, this painting only resurfaced after restoration work in the 1880s. It bears wounds from the English civil war and is a must-see.
This painting represents the temporary and unfulfilling nature of the pursuit money, power and status; it was painted approximately 800 years before the first broadcast of a popular television program of the same name that unwittingly conveyed the same message.
Fresco
This 2004 fresco, depicting a Biblical scene (presumably), but painted in the Byzantine style (so, no perspective), draws visitors from around the globe, although this might be because it is located immediately behind the tills to the gift shop.
The technical ability necessary to paint on wet plaster is impressive, but some visitors have their doubts about this piece - what is the point of a modern-day pastiche of a long-defunct artistic cul-de-sac? Its painting marked the 1400th anniversary of the diocese, and is part of a long tradition: most of the (now bare) walls of the medieval cathedral would have been covered in fancy paintings, including the exterior. This fresco should last a thousand years, so no rush: see it in your own time.
Mosaic memorial to the Royal Engineers.
As you enter through the West Front, this mosaic in memory of fallen Royal Engineers is a handsome tribute.
The Kent Bell
A shiny bell!
The not-so-shiny ship was sold for scrap and broken up in 1920. Eleven ships of the Royal Navy have been named HMS Kent, after the county of Kent and the Duke of Kent. The bell was presented to the Cathedral in 1948. Apparently some of the dates engraved on it are wrong.
Charles Dickens' Memorial
Dickens loved Rochester, lived nearby and based many of his tales in the town.
He is not buried here though (see below), resting, against his wishes, in a more exclusive SW1 address. Kentish men and maids must instead make do with a little plaque.
Library doorway
This 1343 doorway was originally the entrance to the monk's dormitory, and now to a library.
The stone carving is impressive, depicting knockabout anti-Semitic imagery popular at the time. Easily missed as you are drawn to the choir, but do glance over if you can.
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Dead People
William of Perth
Without Dickens' remains, the most noteworthy corpse is that of this unfortunate Scottish baker, murdered and robbed by his adopted son on a pilgrimage to Kent in 1201.
A madwoman who tended William's corpse subsequently became sane, leading many locals to conclude his body could heal the sick; Cathedral authorities soon sainted the Perthshire pilgrim, who is now the only saint buried in Rochester not to have been bishop. He was a big draw: so many punters came to seek William’s healing power, they wore away the stairway to his grave, which became known as the Pilgrims' Steps. No trace of William's remains now remain, which further compromises Rochester's score in this aggressively-contested category.
Charles Dickens’ grave
Sorry, no; Dickens was deemed too famous to rest by the Medway, despite requesting a slot at Rochester.
Instead, Westminster Abbey bagsied these sought-after bones. Despite being cheated of the great man’s grave, the Rochester’s annual Dickensian festival will carry on, and is anyway perhaps a more-fitting tribute to the great man. This is not the end of Rochester; Rochester is just fine without a celebrated author rotting in its sod. But the body would have done no-end of help to the town’s otherwise feeble “dead people” scores in this robust and scientific audit.
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